The TikTok trend is sparking conversations and driving change, forcing big brands to play catch up. 

Self-tanning has grown more sophisticated since its ‘00s heyday. 

Back then it was known as ‘fake’ tanning, and a simple misstep could leave a person looking like a soggy, streaky Wotsit. Nowadays, consumers can choose from a multitude of higher-end products marketed as an extension of your expensive skincare routine, leading Business of Fashion to ask “Is Tanning Back?” in 2023.

Historically, the tanning industry has been for white people, of course. ‘Black people don’t need to tan’ is the response you might’ve got from puzzled beauty execs if you’d thought to broach the subject a decade ago. Despite the fact that darker skin does indeed tan, ‘tanning culture’, with all its creams, mitts and streaky bedsheets, has excluded people of colour from the conversation. 

That’s until #BlackGirlTanning exploded on TikTok post-pandemic, with a wave of Black beauty influencers exploring self-tanning products, often for the first time. Comments on their videos show dozens more early-stage tanners asking for tips – wIth the majority of available products still made for paler skin, advice and recommendations are a crucial part of the journey. 

For many of these women, applying tanning products isn’t necessarily about changing the skin’s colour, but giving it a more even appearance. Self-tanning lotions can help conceal common skin concerns experienced by women of colour, such as hyperpigmentation, while creating that soft luminosity the camera phone loves. ‘Make-up for the body’ is how it’s often described. 

What does this say about culture?

#BlackGirlTanning shows how consumer trends today are often intertwined with identity, which, when it goes right, can allow people to confront difficult topics and ultimately build stronger connections. The prevalence of this trend in particular has sparked discussions around colourism and beauty standards within Black communities, while allowing others to learn about these issues for the first time. 

The power of TikTok is on full display here too. Whether beauty or food, social media communities can dismantle decades of marketing hegemony within a relatively short time. It’s unlikely large brands would’ve thought to diversify their product offering so quickly had these conversations not entered wider culture through platforms like TikTok. 

Thought starters for brands

• Think like a sociologist, not an economist: Blue Ocean Strategy is a business bible – and nearly two decades old – yet so few brands seem to use cultural insights to spot new or unaddressed markets. To find these spaces, you need to stop thinking like an economist, and stop seeing people as a singular amorphous mass. Which segments of your market are currently underserved? 
• Think like an anthropologist, not an economist: of those segments that are underserved, what are their true pain points? Have you spoken to them, spent time with them when and where they use your product? Have you observed their behaviours rather than their claims?

To unlock more beauty insights, email discover@culturelab.co 

^{(Sources: CultureLab CultureIndex, November 2024)}